HOW TO MAKE TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE FISH SAUCE
Nước mắm – fish sauce, or literally “salted fish water” is absolutely the soul of Vietnamese cuisine. In the meals of Vietnamese families, there is always a small bowl of fish sauce to make the food tastier. It is usually placed in the middle of the tray, which becomes a symbol of thoughtfulness and the sharing in Vietnamese community. While rice is the quintessence of the land, fish sauce is the quintessence of water, representing balance between yin and yang in the Vietnamese culture.
Vietnamese fish sauce is made by fermenting fish with salt through a several-step process. Let’s have a glance of how fish sauce is traditionally made.
Ingredients:
Fresh fish (usually small, oily fish like anchovies, sardines, or mackerel scads)
Sea salt (non-iodized)
Equipment:
Wooden or ceramic barrels or pot vessels
Weight or press
Cloth or netting
Sunshine or warm, well-ventilated area
Time (months to years, depending on the desired quality)
Steps:
First and foremost, fish selection: Choose the fresh, small fish that are rich in oils. My mom usually makes fish sauce with mackerel scads. Some other alternatives are anchovies and sardines but anchovies are pretty rare and sardines are too bony to have the oily sauce. The fish are usually clean themselves but in case there are sand or impurities, the fish can be cleaned with salty water.
The next step, salting: This step can be considered as the decisive factor of the taste. Mix cleaned fish with sea salt with the ratio at 8:1 or 10:1 depending on how big the fish are. For example, you will mix 8 bowls of fish with 1 bowl of salt. Use your hands to finely mix fish and salt before put them into the prepared barrels or pot vessels. Make sure the fish are completely submerged in the salt and remember to place the barrels and vessels in a sunny, warm, and well-ventilated area.
Some people skip the third step, but actually it makes the difference, Pressing: Place a weight or press on top of the fish to compress them and facilitate the extraction of liquid. This helps create a dense layer of fish at the bottom, which will turn into the primary liquid.
Fermentation: Cover the containers with cloth or netting to allow air circulation and to keep out insects and debris. The sun is the key of that process that helps promote fermentation and the breakdown of fish.
Fermentation Period: The fermentation process can take several months to a few years, depending on the desired quality of the fish sauce. During this time, the fish gradually break down, releasing their juices and enzymes, which interact with the salt to create the sauce.
Extraction: After the fermentation period, the liquid is extracted from the containers. You will see the liquid which is the fish fauce on the top of the containers. The solids left behind can be used for other purposes or discarded. Usually, the solids are used to feed the home-raised pigs.
One of the most challenging steps is Filtering: The raw fish sauce is typically filtered to remove any remaining solids and impurities. This can be done using a fine mesh or cloth. Filtering is a process that requires patience and stillness so that the fish sauce can be crystal clear. Just a minor movement can cause the coarse solids in the liquid. It may take a whole day to finish filtering 3 liters of fish sauce.
Bottling and Storage: The filtered fish sauce is then bottled. It is best to store it in glass bottles, or ceramic containers, and try not use the plastic bottles. On sunny days, my mom usually puts the bottles of fish sauce in the sun with the cap opened; this will bring out fresh odor.
Traditional fish sauce making is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. Yet, the result is extraordinary. You will have a crystal clear bottle of fish sauce in a unique and flavorful condiment that adds depth of flavor to a wide range of dishes.
Of course, the quality and flavor of fish sauce are influenced by the duration of fermentation, but "the longer, the better" can be the rule to to apply. Fermentation period depends on several factors, including the type of fish used, the fish-to-salt ratio and the weather, but it should be at least 3 months.
The best time to make fish sauce is dry season with a lot of sunshine and heat. Certainly, make sure that your desired fish is available at that time. For the center of Vietnam, the ideal time is around May or June annually.
Don’t forget to include the exploration of fish sauce production in your trip to Vietnam. You can visit Phu Quoc Island, Nha Trang, or Phan Thiet. These regions have established fish sauce factories that provide guided tours and offer insights into the traditional methods of making fish sauce.
