NINH BINH THREE-DAY ITINERARY
I’m from Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park where more than 400 caves have been found and the limestone massif is the oldest system in Asia. I get used to karst, caves and rivers; Ninh Binh, therefore, has not always been the top choice for my travel. However, my curiosity of why Ninh Binh has become so popular has urged me to explore Ninh Binh by myself and find out the answer.
And yes, I completely agree with most travelers: Ninh Binh is simply so incredible.
Ninh Binh is easily travel from Hanoi within two-hour drive but it takes around six hours by bus from Phong Nha or by train from Dong Hoi. I chose train because it is my favorite way to travel through Vietnam.
I arrived at Ninh Binh train station at around 6 o’clock in the morning. I left my luggage at a cafe nearby and went for a walk to explore the city. The city itself is clear and quiet. The morning air was so fresh that I couldn’t help taking so much fresh oxygen deeply to start a new day. After a short walk, I got back to the cafe, had breakfast and waited for the van to pick me up for the first trip in Ninh Binh: Bich Dong - Mua Cave - Hoa Lu - Trang An.
I didn't expect much from this tour because I had already visited these places before. However, to my surprise, having a tour guide alongside me truly enhanced my overall experience.
The tour starts at Bich Dong - the most ancient pagoda in Ninh Binh. I was so amazed by the tour guide’s sharing of Buddhism in Vietnam even though religion has never been my cup of tea. Of course, the feeling when visiting the spiritual places like temples or pagodas is precious but the knowledge acquired during the trip is what I was looking for.
Bich Dong Pagoda
Bich Dong Pagoda, an ancient architectural marvel that dates back to 1428, holds a captivating allure that sets it apart. What truly distinguishes Bich Dong Pagoda is its unique structure, symbolizing the number "three" in Chinese culture. Like the character "三," this pagoda is composed of three distinct elements: three separate buildings, arranged along the mountainside across three levels, starting from the lower pagoda and leading up to the middle and upper pagodas. At the peak of the mountain, a grand statue of a scholar Mandarin stands, gazing out towards the horizon. This vantage point offers a breathtaking view of the splendid landscapes of Hoa Lu. Venturing into the depths of Bich Dong Grotto, visitors are transported back in time, immersing themselves in the enchanting legends of the Post Le Dynasty.
The next place was Mua Cave view point which challenges you with 500 steps up (and of course, 500 steps down). I was lucky to travel in November so the weather was nice, sunny but mild. However, if you visit Ninh Binh in summer time (May- July), please make sure that you bring sun hat, sunscreen and drink a lot of water.
Entrance fee: 100,000VND/ pax (approx. US$4.5)
“If you find yourself in the enchanting Ninh Binh, there is one place that simply cannot be missed - the awe-inspiring Mua cave viewpoint”. Offering a breathtaking panoramic vista of Tam Coc and Ngo Dong river, Mua cave viewpoint is a destination that is sure to leave you in awe. From high above, you can feast your eyes on the vast rice fields stretched out below, resembling a patchwork quilt of vibrant greens. The limestone karsts, standing tall and majestic, create a picture-perfect backdrop against the clear blue sky. This is a place that truly ignites your imagination, evoking a sense of wonder and appreciation for Vietnam's natural wonders.
The trip continues with a visit to Hoa Lu Ancient capital and a history lesson. Hoa Lu was established in the 10th century under the Dinh Dynasty and lasted for approximately 150 years until the capital was moved to Thang Long (present-day Hanoi). The remnants of this ancient capital consist of two main temples, Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Dai Hanh, dedicated to the two prominent Emperors of that time. Not many relics have been remained, but temples surrounded by the huge limestone ranges make the place so magnificent.
We had lunch at Chef Dung restaurant near Trang An. Outdoor seating, delicious food, fresh air from the paddy fields. Couldn’t ask more for a lunch break.
In the afternoon, you can take a boat trip to Trang An Complex. It's a peaceful place with beautiful scenery. The boat gently moves through clear water, surrounded by greenery and tall limestone rocks. The boat trip was made more interesting with the waterbirds swimming around and disappearing for moments to look for the fish.
Entrance & Boat price: 250,000VND/ pax (approx. US$11)
Boat trip in Trang An
You can choose from different three routes:
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Route 1 (3 hours) |
Route 2 (approx 2 hours) |
Route 3 (3 hours) |
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1. Dot Cave – 1000 meters long (also known as May Cave) 2. Van Cave – 400 meters long 3. Dai Cave – 150 meters long
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If you want to maximize your cave experience and time in the row boat and/or visit the Tran Temple, Route 1 is your best choice. |
For a nice balance between spiritual sites and naturalcaves, Route 2 is the right option |
If you want to boat through the longest cave(1km) in Trang An, see the King Kong filming location, and visit multiple spiritual sites, Route 3 is for you.
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The trip ends after the boat trip in Trang An.
DAY 2: VAN LONG NATURE RESERVE - THUNG NHAM BIRD PARK
I decided to have a slow day today to enjoy the morning time at the homestay: Trang An Lamia Bungalow.
I rented a scooter at the homestay and explored Ninh Binh by myself.
The first stop was Choi Trau Art Space. It had not been really ready when I arrived but it was a very promising place. The owner of the place is a talented painter who possesses a true passion for creating art. There is a cottage with a traditional kitchen for you to stay overnight (of course, with advance booking). Or you simply just visit and enjoy the exhibition and will be invited with coffee or tea. Choi Trau Art Space is not too far from Trang An Lamia; you totally can get there by bicycle.
The next stop was Van Long Nature Reserve. Please be aware of the long distance from Trang An to Van Long. Also, you have to drive on the Highway so please be aware of the trucks and vans as well.
Van Long is a wetland that attracts flocks of migratory birds from the north. The isolated rocky mountains at the lake have created a vast valley and "accidentally" become the shelter for many species of animals and birds. Van Long is also the home to more than 52 individuals of white-rumped langurs which are considered one of the world's most endangered primate species. In addition, there are species of animals and plants recorded in the Vietnam Red Book such as broad-leaved minnows, codonopsis, japonicas, black bears, clouded leopards, monitor lizards... Especially, Ca Cuong (Giant water bug) which is nearly considered extinct can live in this area, which proves the pure water at Van Long nature reserve.
Embark on a boat trip through the beautiful tall grass that sways gently in the breeze, and enjoy watching small fish swim in the clear river grass. Relax and feel the warmth of the sun on your face as you float along the peaceful waterway. This journey is worth it, even if it means taking a long drive to reach this perfect destination.
I personally prefer Van Long to Trang An.
Price: 200,000VND/ boat (approx. US$9), maximum 2 guests per boat.
Tips: The best time to visit Van Long is the afternoon when you can see flocks of birds and the langurs start to show up. If you can bring your wide-angle lens or a pair of binoculars, it would be the best.
Thung Nham Bird Park was the next destination on this day. I was advised to visit Thung Nham at late afternoon, too. And I found that I couldn’t divide myself into two to visit both Thung Nham and Van Long at the same time, so I chose Thung Nham for the birds because it’s closer to Tam Coc.
Though Thung Nham is not as intact as Van Long, the scene of thousands of storks and black-crowned night heron flying above of you and nesting on the trees is really impressive. I had never felt so close to natural birds like that before. I really enjoyed seeing the birds, listening to their sounds and watching their nests hanging on the tree branches.
Tips: Don’t touch your hands on the water. The water is filled with bird shits.
For the evening activities, I was told to visit Hoa Lu ancient town but I quickly found that it was not my type. It’s called “ancient” but it has been built recently in Ninh Binh city. It looks like a theme park rather than a real ancient town. There are vendors and restaurants for you to fill up your stomach but not the best place to enjoy. In case you have time to kill while waiting for the late night train, this place can be not-too-bad option.
DAY 3: CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK DAY OUT
Cuc Phuong is not the largest National Park but it is the first one in Vietnam. With the size of 22,408 square hectares, Cuc Phuong is gifted with 2234 vascular and non-vascular plants, 122 species of reptiles and amphibians, and 135 species mammals, including the Clouded Leopard, Delacour's Langur, Owston's Civet and Asian Black Bear. There are also an incredible 336 documented bird species in Cuc Phuong National Park.
I have always been excited to visit Cuc Phuong even though I have been to Phong Nha Ke Bang - the largest National Park in Vietnam many times before.
And I love Cuc Phuong.
Highlight of the day must be the visit to the Rescue station of Primates. You will be taught by the expert guide about differences between langurs and macaques. What impressed me the most is the staff’s commitment to protect these endangered animals. In just one hour, you gain more knowledge than a whole day in school. This experience leaves a lasting impression, reminding you to care for our fragile ecosystem. You leave with a newfound appreciation for conservation and the strength of primates. This visit may be short, but it reminds you that small actions matter in protecting our planet's biodiversity.
A gibbon at Cuc Phuong Rescue Station of Primates
Special notes: You will be required to wear face masks when visiting the primates. It is explained that the masks will protect you from any (possible) viruses/ bacterium from the animals.
Some tips for your Ninh Binh trip:
Most of people suggested to stay in Tam Coc, which is more convenient with restaurants, bars and cafes. However, I chose to stay in Trang An that is much quieter and relaxed. Remember, don’t drive at night as there is no street lights on the way home to Trang An.
The best time to visit Mua cave viewpoint is early morning for the breathtaking sunrise. This serene moment allows you to immerse yourself in the solitude of nature and appreciate its grandeur to the fullest extent. If you desire to experience this magical atmosphere, it is highly recommended to venture into Ninh Binh independently rather than a guided tour.
Bai Dinh Pagoda is often hailed as a must-visit destination in countless travel blogs and websites. Regrettably, I must confess that I didn't visit this grandeur religious complex during my recent trip. However, irrespective of one's religious affiliations, the magnificence of Bai Dinh Pagoda is not to be overlooked. Whether you're a devout Buddhist seeking a spiritual retreat or simply an admirer of awe-inspiring architecture, this colossal sanctuary promises to leave an indelible impression on all who step foot within its grounds.
For visiting some holy places like temples and pagodas, appropriate outfit is very important. Here are some notes for you:
No sleeveless shirts or deep neckline shirt.
Your shorts/ skirt must cover your knees.
If you love wearing shorts/ short skirt and sleeveless shỉrt/ crop top, remember to bring along a scarf with you.
HOW TO GET TO NINH BINH
1. From Hanoi?
Ninh Binh is just around 100km away from Hanoi; it takes you approximately 2 hours by bus. There are actually day trips to Ninh Binh from Hanoi, but I believe that one day is never enough for this amazing place.
You can book train/ bus tickets between Hanoi and Ninh Binh through baolau.com.
2. From Dong Hoi/ Phong Nha ?
It takes around 6 hours by bus/ train to Ninh Binh and you totally can take the night train/ bus.
If you stay in Phong Nha, the best way to go to Ninh Binh is by night bus. Please ask the receptionist at your homestay/ hotels, they will arrange the ticket for you.
If you stay in Dong Hoi, you had better travel by train. The train usually departs at around 9pm and arrives at 5am the next morning. If you stay in Phong Nha and still want to take the train, you will need one hour transfer from Phong Nha to Dong Hoi. You can choose to take a taxi (which is at around 300,000VND/ way) or a local bus. Please check the schedule at another article: What can you do without a guided tour in Phong Nha.
You also can book the tickets via baolau.com.
In a nutshell, I was initially in doubt of whether Ninh Binh, was truly as breathtaking as the rumors suggested. However, after embarking on a three-day exploration of this hidden gem, I can confidently say that Ninh Binh is a destination that simply cannot be skipped on any Vietnam trip.
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